here's a parts list for putting together a P-bass from pre-made parts. the costs noted are for reference, and can vary significantly depending on the exact parts chosen. much of the how-to's can be found in other threads here in this forum
* Mighty Mite Maple/Maple Fender style neck - $125
* Fender '62RI lefty P-bass body - $300
http://cgi.ebay.com/LEFTY-Vintage-62-RI ... dZViewItem
* Leo Quan BAII bridge - $80
* 4ea Hipshot Ultralight tuners (I'd splurge here) - $90
* Nordstrand NP-4 pickup (I'd splurge here) - $115
* Tortoise/w/b P-bass pickguard - $75
http://cgi.ebay.com/GENUINE-FENDER-LEFT ... dZViewItem
* 13ea pickguard screws - $3
* 4ea neck screws - $3
* 2ea 250k ohm a/t pots - $10
* 2ea knobs - $10
* 1/4" mono jack, switchcraft - $3
* .047uf Orange Drop cap - $3
* neck plate - $5
* neck plate pad - $2
* shielding foil - $10
* misc wire and solder - $5
* Hipshot string retainer (another splurge) - $10
http://hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=p ... tail&p=235
all totaled, this above average build on a budget (minus case and strings) comes to a total of just under $850. if you were to have someone assemble this for you, the typical going rate is usually around $100 - but could be more if any of the parts were used and required repair.
another upgrade to consider would be to utilize a Fender '62RI CIJ neck. while this would add another $250 to the project cost, the neck would also include all of the correct decals and a serial number - something to consider should you ever decide to sell.
also note that if you decide to utilize a CIJ neck, be certain to also utilize the same RI year CIJ tuners - the standard CIJ tuners have a slightly smaller hole than standard USA/MIM Fenders. cost for these tuners is similar to the Hipshots quoted, but they will be a little heavier
all the best,
R
Budget building: assembling a low-cost parts bass
Moderator: Rodent
Budget building: assembling a low-cost parts bass
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Re: Budget building: assembling a low-cost parts bass
That's a good breakdown, thanks Rod. I've considered building a bass for the fun of it, but other things always come up first. How much would having a body built add to the cost Rod?
I'm not a huge fan of the basswood bodies they use on the lefty MIJ Fender basses. Not because basswood sounds bad, but because it sounds similar to alder and I have enough alder basses already.
I'm not a huge fan of the basswood bodies they use on the lefty MIJ Fender basses. Not because basswood sounds bad, but because it sounds similar to alder and I have enough alder basses already.
-
SubsonicAssault
- Posts: 58
- Joined: March 14th, 2008, 3:48 pm
Re: Budget building: assembling a low-cost parts bass
Wow, $850 isn't bad at all. That would be basically 300 dollars less than a brand new Fender American Standard P-bass. Pretty sweet. To put it all together and paint/finish the body, is that included in the 100 dollar charge to assemble it?
Re: Budget building: assembling a low-cost parts bass
the two main cost factors I face when crafting a custom body are the cost of wood and the cost of having it finished (during that part of the year when I can't spray in my shop due to the gas furnace running)
on average a quality 8/4 body blank is going to run somewhere between $65US (Alder, Poplar, Basswood) and $125US (Mahogany, Prima Vera, select Swamp Ash) of course adding in the price of a figured top can make this really sky rocket, again depending on what woods a client chooses. in many cases I can source a body blank locally for about 15% less, but it also involves four hours of my time picking thru the available selection at one of several local hardwood stores. the drawback to the cost savings is that I usually need to age the wood for 6+ months to get the moisture content stable in my shop ... that's 6+ months for wood that is kiln dry, it can be nearly 2 years for 'wet' lumber to be ready for further working
finish work isn't cheap! a local shop charges me $250US to finish a body in clear gloss - but it's one incredible finish job, too. a similar job from Wilkins will run around the same, and then I need to factor in the cost of r/t shipping. for bodies I finish myself, an oil finish usually takes about 10 hours of labor while a spray finish runs about 15 hours working time. if a project has the financial budget, it should be obvious why I prefer to send the finish job out once I have the body fully detailed and finish sanded.
here's a link to Wilkin's web site just in case you want to check out what pricing is like for more complex finish jobs:
http://www.wilkinsguitars.com/pricelist.html
here's one of my favorite Wilkins finishes

all the best,
R
on average a quality 8/4 body blank is going to run somewhere between $65US (Alder, Poplar, Basswood) and $125US (Mahogany, Prima Vera, select Swamp Ash) of course adding in the price of a figured top can make this really sky rocket, again depending on what woods a client chooses. in many cases I can source a body blank locally for about 15% less, but it also involves four hours of my time picking thru the available selection at one of several local hardwood stores. the drawback to the cost savings is that I usually need to age the wood for 6+ months to get the moisture content stable in my shop ... that's 6+ months for wood that is kiln dry, it can be nearly 2 years for 'wet' lumber to be ready for further working
finish work isn't cheap! a local shop charges me $250US to finish a body in clear gloss - but it's one incredible finish job, too. a similar job from Wilkins will run around the same, and then I need to factor in the cost of r/t shipping. for bodies I finish myself, an oil finish usually takes about 10 hours of labor while a spray finish runs about 15 hours working time. if a project has the financial budget, it should be obvious why I prefer to send the finish job out once I have the body fully detailed and finish sanded.
here's a link to Wilkin's web site just in case you want to check out what pricing is like for more complex finish jobs:
http://www.wilkinsguitars.com/pricelist.html
here's one of my favorite Wilkins finishes

all the best,
R
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Re: Budget building: assembling a low-cost parts bass
those CIJ bodies and necks are already finished. all of the bodies I've used for parts builds have been very nicely finished - with most of them looking like the bass was received from the factory and immediately disassembledSubsonicAssault wrote:Wow, $850 isn't bad at all. That would be basically 300 dollars less than a brand new Fender American Standard P-bass. Pretty sweet. To put it all together and paint/finish the body, is that included in the 100 dollar charge to assemble it?
colors are limited to what's currently available at the time you're checking their listings
the $100 covers assembly, shielding, and set-up. a significantly good deal compared to what most places locally charge just for a set-up.
all the best,
R
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Re: Budget building: assembling a low-cost parts bass
This pretty much mirrors my experience on this bass:

The details broke out differently(for example the body is an older Squire that I scored on ebay for $40 and it is actually made from alder), and included finishing the neck and final assembly/setup. The most expensive part was the Warmoth bound & blocked neck.

The details broke out differently(for example the body is an older Squire that I scored on ebay for $40 and it is actually made from alder), and included finishing the neck and final assembly/setup. The most expensive part was the Warmoth bound & blocked neck.
"Nothing is what is seems, but everything is exactly what it is." B. Banzai